The Great Houses of Carcar get NHI markers

A feat shared by no other town in Cebu, the city of Carcar remains to be the destination of choice for those who want to learn both history and culture. The houses for one, built in the 19^th century, have been maintained and their distinct styles endure amidst the ravages of natural and man-made undoing.

Four of these houses have already been included in the list for protection in 4 September, 2009 though unveiled only last 30 May, 2010 by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines NHCP (formerly the National Historical Institute), headed by Chairman Ambeth Ocampo. Indeed, it is a notable achievement for the owners of Balay nga Tisa (Sarmiento-Osmeña House), Dakong Balay (Florencio Noel House), Silva Ancestral House, and the Mercado Mansion as their hard work and patience finally paid off.

A walk along the heritage trail of Carcar

As early as eight in the morning members of the Carcar Heritage Conservation Society (CHCS) arrived and were ushered to the azotea, where a hearty breakfast of Filipino fare was served. The Balay nga Tisa, as it is fondly called, has hosted numerous gatherings since Don Roman Sarmiento and Doña Ana Canarias built it in 1859. Today it is co-owned by cousins Manuel Valencia Castro and Marc Valencia Vanzwoll, whom have zealously kept the tradition.

Santa Catalina Street is dotted with numerous houses from various periods. On one side of the street, coral stone houses are lined up, while on another side are the richly-decorated American period homes.

From Balay nga Tisa everyone walked to the Dakong Balay, which originally belonged to Don Florencio Mercado Noel. Present owner and CHCS Public Relations Officer, Jerry Martin Noel Alfafara, left Chicago and resettled in Carcar just to take care of the house.

A road-widening project in 2002 would have wiped out several houses along J. Rizal Street. The Silva Ancestral House and the Mercado Mansion would no longer be in existence today had the project realized.

The paintings inside the Silva Ancestral house, designed by Benito Silva and Rev. Fr. Anastacio del Corro in 1883, is reminiscent of the ones found inside St. Catherine of Alexandria church and convent. At present it is under the care of Zarah Silva Castro, also of CHCS.

Across the Silva Ancestral House is the Mercado Mansion, home of Don Mariano Mercado who is remembered for initiating other well-know Carcar landmarks such as the Rotunda, the Dispensary and the Rizal Monument. The house is maintained by Catalina Lucero together with her daughters Luz Lucero and Elsa Yared.

Heightened awareness

Manuel V. Castro in his acceptance speech said, “These markers symbolize the trust the NHCP accorded us, and also our commitment to our fellow Carcaranons and the Filipino people, to continuously protect and preserve our heritage... Let this also be the beginning of heightened awareness for the preservation of ancestral houses, public buildings, monuments, century-old Acacia trees, that will make us proud of Carcar as a heritage site.”

These houses are the first privately-owned houses in Cebu to be recognized by NHCP as National Historical Landmarks. The first marker unveiled in Carcar was at the Pantaleon “Leon Kilat” Villegas’ Monument middle of 2009.

The turn-over of four markers set another challenge to Carcaranons to protect and preserve their tangible heritage. More than 40 heritage structures in Carcar remain and need to be safeguarded.

NHI to turn-over markers to four Carcar Houses

Owners of four houses and all Carcaranons will finally get to see National Historical Institute markers that weigh an average of 40 kilos, bolted in on walls made of coral stone.

I got the chance to document workers attaching the cast iron markers yesterday at Balay nga Tisa (Sarmiento-Osmena House), Ang Dakong Balay (Don Florencio Noel House), Silva House and Mercado Mansion.

On Saturday, 29 May 2010 at 9:00 in the morning these markers will be available for the public to see. Joining the VIP list are Honorable Ambeth R. Ocampo, Chairman of the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), and Director Ludouico D. Badoy, also of NHCP. Local officials, members of the Carcar Heritage Conservation Society, friends and relatives of the owners, and Cebu City heritage advocates will also grace the event.

Jerry Martin Alfafara, present owner of the Florencio Noel House mentioned that it took him about ten years to have the markers put realized but worth the wait. These houses will now be protected by law.

The first NHI Marker unveiled in Carcar was at the Leon Kilat Monument in 2009.

   

Keeper of the Sinulog

We Cebuanos know by heart the "two-steps forward and the one-step backward" movement of the Sinulog. That it is the grand annual festival held every third Sunday of January. That it is celebrated in honor of the Santo Niño.

One person though treasures more the sound and the movement like how her father, Buenaventura Diola taught her as a child. Estelita Diola or better known as Nang Titang faithfully kept the Sinulog in its truest form. Her undying passion resonates, reaching the deepest emotions of those who hear the steady rhythm of her drum.

Now at 80 years she continues to pass on the veritable legacy to the new generation.

Scenes at the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño on the 2nd day of the novena

The midday sun did not hinder the gathering of more devotees on the second day of the novena. A sea of colorful umbrellas filled the pilgrim center as each mass progressed. All unmindful of the heat, so long as they pay homage to the Holy Child.

Sto. Niño images of all sizes and colors are blessed at the end of each mass. Almost all homes even in the farthest islands in the Philippines have their own version of the Niño.

The Gozos: Bato balani sa Gugma or magnet of love is a prayer-song that fills all churchgoers with emotions when sung. They raise their hands in praise of the Holy Child.

Ushering in Year 2009

Five hours more and still everyone's tied up to the usual preparations for the New Year. This highly anticipated holiday in the Philippines is celebrated mainly with food, to symbolize abundance in the coming year. People are very busy now doing rounds around the kitchen to stock the table with anything that mimicks the shape of money. There's the usual 12 round fruits, each representing a month in a year and the ever-present pancit or any noodle dish to bring in luck of a longer life.

Late afternoon today when I also did my rounds in Carcar's market, I could say that the rains couldn't stop the swarm of people doing last minute shopping along the narrow alleys. Turned muddy by the unusual weather the past few days. Of course don't forget the fact that Filipinos are very fond of doing things at the last minute so every corner, anywhere you turn you'll see people buying bread, fruits and everything they need because you are not supposed to spend on the first day of the year. Superstition dictates that if you spend nothing you'll have plenty of money to spend the rest of the year.

The Filipinos penchant for grand celebrations, not only limited to the New Year celebrations, are influences from the Chinese. And before all fireworks (another great Chinese invention) are lit up later tonight let's think how we can make 2009 a better year for us.

Happy New Year all!

Happy people

I mentioned how chaotic Philippines fiestas are in my previous post. And how these kind of events become opportunities for many.

Carcar celebrates the feast of its patroness St. Catherine on November 25. Two days prior to that the Kabkaban festival and the Festival of Lights were held around the town's major streets. Both events held ahead to lure more crowd as this year's fiesta fell on a weekday which is also workday for most. I already had it in mind not to invite friends on the day of the fiesta because there's really not much to see. I also reasoned out that the traffic situation is also getting worse, a major turn-off for those coming from Cebu city.

And so the day was all for me. An opportunity to do what I love to do.

The following set is all about the happy nature of Filipinos, in a study a year ago by Axa Asia Life and research company Taylor Nelson Sofres where the Philippines came second to India.

The Nomads of Cebu

Philippine fiestas are chaotic yet vibrant in a way. These occasions are huge crowd drawers. And where the throng gathers business thrives. Like pilgrims who have come to venerate the saint they too have come but in pursuit of other desires.

The candle vendors are the wanderers of the modern times. They have no known permanent abode. Often coming in large groups wandering from town to town, where fiesta celebrations are.

The Festival of Lights of Carcar

Yet again the fiesta in Carcar came to a close with another emphasis on the life of its patroness St. Catherine of Alexandria. The Festival of Lights is not just a mere spectacle of colorful gaiety but more importantly a way to revive the long forgotten devotion to the virgin-martyr. Four carrozas depicting major events in her life, her journey to sainthood, were paraded down passing through a street aptly named after her.

At the first sound of the drum people started to gather at the Balay na Tisa where the processional image of the saint dating back to the Spanish times is kept. The ceremony is reminiscent of dapit which I witness in my trip to Malolos, Bulacan for the Sto. Niño festival early this year. In dapit, different images of the Holy Child borne on carrozas decorated or not, are brought to the church late in the afternoon for a short procession around the town. The procession is first of the three, the remaining two happens the following day, always falling on the fourth Sunday of January. One in the morning and the grand procession in the evening.

The Festival of Lights is never complete without the Kabkaban dance. Fresh from their win from the previous days Kabkaban Festival, the Carcar Central Highschool dancers lent their talent by igniting the jovial mood of the people gathered around as the procession makes its way to the church for the mass.

A sonorous sound echoes this time coming from the church belfry signaled the end of the mass. Then festal music is played by the band as the carrozas went down the hill. The dancers now have changed to their hats mounted with lamps, from a distance one would see them meander through the narrow streets of the plaza.

It takes almost two hours for the reach back the church grounds through the traditional route of narrow streets around town. At the moment St. Catherines carroza nears the Balay na Tisa it makes a quick stop. Photos are taken with the house as background but more importantly the men also have their quick break from pushing the antique carriage. Water is served attentively them by the helpers of the house

The last stretch of the procession is a few hundred meters from the house. And then the last set of sounds from the belfry can be heard from a distance. The carroza finally reached its destination. A few minutes more it started its descent together with the untiring dancers accompanied the the joyous Kabkaban beat. They make their final dance before everyone.

Until the next fiesta!

Die in style

Mortuary services are getting the buzz these days after the e-burol or online wake viewing is becoming the practical option for the departed's relatives abroad. Technology really has it's way.

Also getting enough attention are the artsy custom designed caskets handpainted to suit your style. Make a statement with these. Angels and any other religious themes are the popular designs sought.

The dead come here for their final pampering but the furnitures fashioned like caskets are hauling tourists in. Luckily, I was the sole visitor that day as everybody else got so busy in the cemeteries.

Carcar, Cebu

Kalag-kalag 2008 Sidelights

Here are some rather amusing and bizarre scenes from the cemetery in Carcar. Filipinos have their peculiar ways of celebrating Kalag-kalag.

Condominium type of dwellings for the dead. Reaching up to five layers these are common in cemeteries where vacant spaces are hard to find. Getting coffins inside the penthouse units is a spectacle one should see.

When you don't have the means to buy a lapida (stone tablet), just carve out the name of the dead on the still wet cement. Just don't push so hard, the seal might open. The young girls in the photo are removing the weeds before lighting the candle.

Fresh flowers have doubled in cost. To save on money, make flowers of your own. Colored papers are so cheap. Fashion it out to the desired blooms. Tie it with copper wires and put it on an empty sardine can. Fill with pebbles to stabilize. Your worry now is the rain to ruin your obra maestra.

Lastly, before you head home don't forget to get yourself smoked. A pile of dried leaves or weeds will do. Add some bits of candle for a desirable aroma. Palina is a pagan ritual practiced in faraway towns and provinces. The smoke is said to ward off bad spirits that might decide to go home with you. Just in case you forget this ritual rubbing your body with fresh lemonsito leaves will do.

Business as usual

While many are enjoying the comforts of airconditioned malls in the city. Cemeteries are also getting their fair share of the consumer traffic. It is business as usual even on the last day of the Kalag-kalag celebrations. Enterprising people young and old are taking advantage of this once-a-year occasion.

Just in case you forgot your prayers, everything is available here. Amulets, herbs, various concoctions, love potions or what have you, these are popular among visitors.

Candles are the most sought-after commodity. This young boy tends to their makeshift store near the entrace at the public cemetery in Minglanilla town.

This young woman takes an early lunch amidst the hustle and bustle of the narrow street leading to the cemetery. A much needed break indeed. Most vendors have been here a day before Kalag-kalag. Flowers grown from nearby towns are the cheaper alternative and will get more cheaper once the festivities are nearly ending.

Masses are held by the hour. The church has the monopoly of this business. Aside from the pamisa, they also exercise control over the lighting of tombs charging a hefty amount for only two days of use.